Nairobi, Kenya

While relaxing in Arusha, we concocted a plan for our remaining days in Africa - and after some Belgian encouragement we decided to set out for Rwanda.  The Arusha to Kigali bus ride would have taken two days of circling north around Lake Victoria (through Kenya and Uganda), but we found a reasonable roundtrip flight from Nairobi to Kigali so we opted for air travel.  We packed our bags, said “kwaheri” to one of our favorite countries, and hopped on a mini-bus to cross from Tanzania to Kenya.

Whether it be genes or Wisconsin-raised will, I rarely get ill (an iron stomach so to speak) but my poor husband hasn’t faired as well with the traveller’s illnesses.  With a 102 fever, vomiting, and diarrhea, he took the six hour bus ride across the border like a soul on the verge of perishing.  At every stop he beelined for the bathroom, not exactly your idea of a joyous ride - more like painful abyss bordering on wanting to kick the bucket.  Given his imminent demise, we decided to upgrade to the Hilton for some luxury accommodations.  Recovering for 24 hours, he’s now back in the land of the living, Nairobi that is.

Nairobi, with its infamously bad reputation combined with our low expectations, surprised us with its clean streets, abundant English speakers, and modern cityscape.  We were also charmed because, seriously, who doesn’t like a free upgrade to a suite with two bathrooms after you’ve been hugging the porcelain for a day and you’ve become accustomed to budget hostels? (I was a Hilton Honors points hoarder in my previous life, which I had been saving for just such an occasion).  Plus, they gave us a free bottle of red wine because it came out that we were newly married.  Walking around downtown Nairobi, we were stuck by the number of armed guards, especially the ones who checked our car for bombs (twice).  We couldn’t ascertain if this was giving us real security or a false sense of protection against would be assailants.  Either way, we’re just happy Ken is now doing great and we’re enjoying the friendly Obama-loving city until we depart tomorrow to Rwanda.