Agra, India

Q: What’s more dangerous than driving in India?  

A: Driving in India in zero visibility fog at midnight in a rickshaw that doesn’t have a headlight.  Roy, we’re lucky you found us such good insurance.

Agra Fort impressed, but nothing compared to the Taj Mahal, the gorgeous white marble mausoleum erected in the name of love.  At Agra Fort Ken was jealous of the tale that the king had a harem of 300 women... that was until I reminded him that he could barely supervise one, and soon our friend Shelley would be joining us on our travels.  He reconsidered: yes, two wives would be too many let alone 300.  We were in such an agreeable mood that we let our rickshaw driver Saleem tour us through the backstreets of Agra.  

Our accommodations were at a ‘homestay’ similar to AirBnB-style living with a local family; Varun, the owner, was so gracious and his mom made us the best masala omelets.  We loved the restaurant Touch of Spice - not only was the food superb but Ken devoured the after-dinner candy-coated fennel (tasted like black licorice).  On our way out of town we inquired with Varun if there was a grocery store (we wanted to pick up snacks for our impending train ride), having looked for a store for two days during our meanderings.  Our host informed us yes, the largest grocery store in all Agra was less than one block away - we were dumbfounded.  We had searched in vain only to find a mega grocery store right next door.  Sometimes what you’re looking for is right in front of you!