Mumbai (Bombay), India

I’ve always had a deep fascination with India - it seemed exotic, so far away.  Maybe I just wanted to escape to an unknown land of history and mysticism.  Probably I was a kid who read too many books.  The dramatic images of India I had constructed in my mind were soon to be realized as we landed into the coastal island city of Mumbai, previously called Bombay (which is what everyone in India still calls it).  Our first impressions of Mumbai (yes Chris Smutny, some of the stereotypes are true): overpopulated given the amount of land; crazy dangerous driving with no regard for lanes, traffic lights, or pedestrians (translation: flashing of headlights means “get out of my way,” throwing a left foot out the rickshaw means “I’m turning left”, and honking does not designate an impending accident but instead means “I’m driving”); smelly / dirty (sorry to be an elitist but there was a definite lack of sanitation, plus goats tied up to fence posts along city streets?!?); immense poverty (half naked children begging on the street corners) and a redefinition, er, lack of or disregard for personal space... ok, but on the positive side: Mumbai was surprisingly full of new modern cars (modernity at its finest, I had expected motor bikes and bicycles); and FANTASTIC food for CHEAP (less than $5 for a huge delicious meal for two).  

I unknowingly booked us into a hotel in the heart of the Muslim neighborhood - a fringe community in a minority ghetto, the menus were in Arabic and the women were in full black niqab.  We felt totally safe, although with tensions of the recent Mumbai attacks I don’t think many Hindus venture into this part of town.  A friend from Wisconsin moved back to Mumbai and graciously agreed to play our tour guide for a day.  We wandered through the streets noting the elegant pre independence architecture along the banks of the Indian Ocean as we drank (in no particular order) chai tea, sweet lassis, cold coffees, bottled water and Kingfisher beer.  Special thanks to Som for our personalized tour of the populous city and insight into the real Bombay.