Cathedral Cove, New Zealand

After a transient layover in Singapore, we dreaded the 10+ hour red eye flight to Auckland.  It ended up quite alright and we soon awoke in a slightly jet-lagged state.  The rumor was New Zealand’s airport customs department would be particularly strict, but they allowed us through no-problem with our risky items: dried apricots, macadamia nuts, and hiking boots (apparently a biohazard for their pristine soil).  Our first impression: are we in Seattle?  That, followed by: easy and friendly English-speaking conversations sprinkled with fun new Kiwi words (portable cooler = “chilly bin”); stunning rolling hills (can you say Lord of the Rings?); lack of harassing hawkers/touts; and the welcome realization of returning to the first world!  As we boarded the perfectly mannered bus from the airport through the quaint suburbs, Ken exclaimed, “Are we in the Truman show?”  Our only disappointment was the sticker shock... seriously, $600 for a rain jacket?!?  Yikes, good thing this is the last destination on our journey.  After a brief yet agonizing mourning period, Southeast Asian prices quickly became a fleeting memory.


We spent two days in (unseasonably) warm and sunny Auckland preparing for an overland adventure of unknown itinerary.  Many fellow campers suggested purchasing a campervan (self-contained converted van with a bed inside), which would allow us the leisurely freedom to tour the country at a reasonable price (assuming we could re-sell the van after two months).  However, after shopping around several rental companies, we settled upon renting from a company called Jucy.  This option offered a turn-key experience with 24-hour roadside assistance and no re-selling hassle in low season.

Before departing Auckland we made the rounds purchasing essential items (mobile broadband card, warm clothes, rain gear, kitchen utensils, portable grill, road atlas, and a colossal grocery run).  (Given the cost of eating out is sky high, we will be cooking our meals in the campervan).  Oh, and we splurged on seeing a movie - Girl with the Dragon Tattoo - in the theatre.  The two hour show was surprisingly luxurious as the seats were fully reclining Lazy Boys and attendants served meals and drinks during the show (burgers, salad, ice cream sundae, and wine... yum!)

Our campervan (we’re trying to overlook the obnoxious neon green color) is ideal for two people, although it technically seats five (three in the front and two in the rear) and sleeps four (two double beds in bunk configuration).  The upper bed remains retracted, providing us ample ability to walk around (most other vans we looked at weren’t tall enough for Ken to stand upright).  During they day, the lower queen bed is converted into a kitchen table and chairs.  The kitchen, in the far rear of the van, includes a sink, fridge, and stovetop... it’s only about 12 square feet, but we love it!  Ken quickly mastered left lane driving and with GPS in tow, we set off.

Now, we are only three hours east of Auckland and we are already shocked at the beautiful terrain.  On the Coromandel peninsula (where we are), the fern and pine tree filled hills sprawl in every direction.  Wooly sheep graze in the pastures and worn farming equipment dots the land.  We follow the winding coast and seagulls flock around us (especially when they smell our lunch as we park at way-sides).  In the evenings when we come upon a campground we plug into the electricity and voila: the first night we parked alongside a small bubbling stream and the second night we pulled up facing the cold crashing waves of the South Pacific.  

We feel like true backpackers now in our mobile home and freedom to roam.  And we have begun to understand: not everyone who wanders is lost.